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BuddhaGaya | Rajgriha | Nalanda | Introduction | Shravasti | Sankashya | Kusinagar | Lumbini |
"Keep in mind this most
beautiful wood,
named by the great rsis,
where ninety-one thousand
kotis of Buddhas
formerly turned the Wheel.
This place is matchless,
perfectly calm,
contemplating, always
frequented by deer.
In this most beautiful
of parks,
whose name was given
by the rsis,
I will turn the holy
Wheel."
All
the 1,000 buddhas of this aeon, after demonstrating the attainment of enlightenment
at Vajrasana, proceed to Sarnath to give the first turning of the wheel
of Dharma. In like manner, Shakyamuni walked from Bodhgaya to Sarnath in
order to meet the five ascetics who had left him earlier. Coming to the
Ganges, he crossed it in one step, where King Ashoka later made Pataliputra
his capital city. He entered Benares early one morning, made his alms round,
bathed, ate his meal and, leaving by the east gate of the city, walked
northwards to Rishipatana Mrigadava, the rishi's Deer Park.
There are many legends about the origin
of this name. Fa Hien says that the rishi was a pratyeka buddha who had
dwelt there but, on hearing that the son of King Suddhodana was about to
become a supreme buddha, entered nirvana. Others mention 500 pratyeka buddhas
and Hsuan Chwang mentions a stupa marking the site of their nirvana.
The name Deer Park derives from an occasion in one of Shakyamuni's former lives as a bodhisattva, when he was leading a herd of deer. After much indiscriminate plundering of the herd by a local king, an agreement was made with him that one of their number would be offered only when necessary. The turn came of a doe, who was shortly to give birth and wished to delay until then. The bodhisattva offered himself in her stead, which so impressed the king that he not only resolved to refrain from killing deer in future but gave the park to them as their own.
At this place the five ascetics had resumed
their austere practices. When they saw the Buddha approaching, thinking
him still to be the Gautama who had forsaken their path, they decided not
to welcome him. Yet, as he neared they found themselves involuntarily rising
and paying respect. Proclaiming that he was the Buddha, Shakyamuni assured
them that the goal had been attained. Hsuan Chwang saw a large, dome-shaped
stupa on this spot, where a large mound, probably its remains, surmounted
by a muslim monument now, stands a short distance south of the park.
During the first watch of the night the
Buddha was silent, during the second he made a little conversation and
at the third began the teaching. At the spot where all the buddhas first
turn the wheel, 1,000 thrones appeared. Shakyamuni circumambulated those
of the three previous buddhas and sat upon the fourth. Light radiated from
his body, illuminating the 3,000 worlds, and the earth trembled. Brahma
offered him a 1,000-spoked golden wheel, and Indra and other gods also
made offerings, all imploring the Buddha to teach.
Thus, inviting the gods and all who wished
to hear, and saying that he spoke not for the purpose of debate but in
order to help living beings gain control of their minds, Shakyamuni began
the first turning of the wheel of Dharma. He taught the middle way, that
avoids the extremes of pleasure and austerity, the four noble truths, and
the eightfold path. Kaundmya was the first of the five ascetics to understand
and realize the teaching; Ashvajit was the last. All eventually became
arhants.
The teachings included in the collection
known as the first turning of the wheel, which began here, extended over
a period of seven years. Other teachings, such as those on the Vinaya and
on the practice of close placement of mindfulness, were given elsewhere,
but the wheel was turned twelve times at Sarnath.
From the time of the Buddha, monastic tradition flourished for over 1,500
years on the site of the Deer Park. Amongst the many ruins, archaeologists
have found traces dating from as early as the third century B.C., and the
existing inscription of Ashoka's pillar, dating from that time, implies
that a monastery was already established during Ashoka's reign. Fa Hien
speaks of two monasteries with monks in residence, while two centuries
later Hsuan Chwang describes a mahavihara encompassing eight divisions.
This contained a great temple with ornate balconies, over one hundred niches
containing gilt images in its walls, and a statue of the Buddha in the
teaching posture.
The last monastery constructed before
the muslim invasion, the Dharmachakra-jina vihara, was the largest of all.
It was built by Kumaradevi, queen of King Govindachandra, who ruled in
Benares from 1114-1154. Here a surviving fragment of stone inscription
records that in 1058 a monk presented a gift copy of the Prajna-paramita
Sutra to the monastery: evidence of mahayana activity at that time. The
discovery in the area of ancient statues of Heruka and Arya Tara shows
that vajrayana was also practised there.

Deer Park was also the location of Shakyamuni's deeds as a bodhisattva in former lives. Hsuan Chwang mentions a number of stupas commemorating these near the monastery: one where the bodhisattva offered himself as the deer; another where, as a six-tusked elephant, he offered his tusks to a deceitful hunter; and a third where the bodhisattva had been a bird, with Maudgalyayana and Sariputra as a monkey and an elephant.
Another stupa commemorated the occasion when Indra manifested as a hungry old man and asked a fox, an ape and a hare (the Buddha in a former life) for food. The fox brought fish, the ape brought fruit, but the bodhisattva hare, having nothing else to offer, threw himself on a fire and offered his roasted body. Indra was so moved by this act that he took the hare and placed him in the moon. Many people in central Asia still refer to the moon as the hare sign, or worship the hare in the moon.
Today the actual site of the Buddha's teaching at Sarnath and the several ruins in the area have been enclosed in a pleasant park. Nearby, a well-planned museum houses a number of unearthed statues, many barely damaged, as well as several other findings from the site. The museum's entrance is dominated by the famous lion capital from Ashoka's pillar, which--an indication of the Indian Government's renewed interest in Buddhism--has been adopted as the national emblem. The wheel design on its base has become the central figure of India's flag.
Adjacent
to the park is the Mahabodhi Society's Mulaghandaluti Temple, an imposing
building containing certain relics of the Buddha. Close by is the Society's
sangharama and a library possessing a rare collection of buddhist literature.
Also in the vicinity are Burmese, Chinese and Tibetan temples, as well
as a Tibetan monastery and the Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies, where
two hundred young monks practise and study the many aspects of the Buddha's
teaching, aspiring to qualify for the degree of acharya. There is also
a Tibetan printing press, The Pleasure of Elegant Sayings, which over the
last decade has published more than thirty Tibetan texts of buddhist treatises,
otherwise hard to find. Thus the wheel of Dharma that Shakyamuni first
turned at Sarnath continues to revolve.
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